EGYPT – LAND OF SAND, HEAT & FLIES
Cast your mind back and apart from the boredom and basic life support, what do you remember most vividly? For me it was the desert sands, the burning sun and the plague of flies supported by the ever-present ants, cockroaches, ‘shite beetles’, scorpions and other assorted creepy crawlies; and the never to be forgotten dreaded mosquitoes always buzzing around biting you whenever possible.
I thought that the Egyptian climate was generally healthy. Although the sun was very hot during daytime, most newly arrived guardsmen soon got used to it. There were very few cases of sunstroke in my unit even though men were required to go out on patrols and daytime perimeter guards.
We’d been ordered not to inflict sun-related injuries on ourselves brought about by careless sun bathing. But it seemed to be a needless cautionary forewarning as there didn’t seem to be much opportunity for that during our posting at El Ballah. But, nevertheless, our parts that were routinely exposed were bronzed, giving the impression of fitness. So the Canal Zoners were a lot better off than those unfortunate enough to have been posted to other theatres such as the steaming Far East jungles and the freezing Northern hemisphere.
But there were drawbacks for us too. For while the days were hot, the temperature plummeted at nighttimes and in the winter months icy winds blew across the desert test the adequacy of the two blankets issued.
If you were tasked with patrols in the desert, the sun was a blazing mass in a cloudless sky under which one perspired until sweat dripped from the forehead down the nose onto the chin and thence down the neck to the chest. At the same time perspiration would flow down one’s elbows and back turning a clinging shirt into a caked mass with a blanco of sweat and sand masking one’s face.
The sand that constantly blew around got into one;s throat and eyes and transport air cleaners clogged up. From time to time sand was gusting boisterously driven by a hot desert wind, the khamsin, sometimes erupting into a violent sand storm.
Those who’d not been in a sandstorm cannot imagine how soul-destroying it can be when looking towards the far distance one could see a wall of sand and dust about 30 metres high headed for you. It would strike with tremendous force and fine sand would get into everything, especially the eyes, ears, nose, mouth, hair and throat. The sky was darkened while the storm lasted, often to be followed by torrential rain. A nasty experience.
But although for the most part we enjoyed good weather the heat combined with the desolate featureless landscape – that is, miles of nothing other than a few ridges and dips could become a burden. In the desert the ground was either sand or fossil-rich limestone dotted with slabs of rock. A monotonous, mind-numbing and wearisome landscape leaving one really fed up. But there might be a little vegetation in the form of the drought resisting camel’s thorn whose deep roots could reach ground water, or leaves that could absorb dew formed during the night.
I recall the dew causing non-starting problems. Dew was a real problem damping the distributors and plug leads of our petrol powered Ford WOT6 trucks, especially while at Abu Sultan. So I had to get all our trucks started every two hours to overcome the problem.
But of all the burdens peculiar to the desert the most detestable was the millions of flies. The Egyptian flies were relentless in the extreme with a firm resolve to settle on human flesh. Soon after sunrise they’d arrive from who knows where and then plague us with malevolent intent throughout the day. They’d buzz around seeking an opportunity to land on our faces or in our eyes, ears and nostrils. Bare necks, hand, arms and knees were targeted and once the flies settled they’d often bite you. For those unfortunate enough to suffer from boils or ulcers, the moistness would attract flies like magnets.
Worst of all they couldn’t resist any form of food. Eating became a single-handed task, the other hand being used to prevent the flies alighting on the plate or mess tin. But even so the odd mouthful could include a fly. They’d swarm above the table, land and sup any liquid from the plate. Or they’d balance on the rim of a mug and inevitably some would fall in and drown in your tea. The only defence against them while in the desert was to drape your camouflage veil over your head and lean forward and in so doing protect yourself and food inside the makeshift tent.
I won’t go on about the other insects for by now your recollections will have been well and truly awakened. But I do find that this kind of stuff enables one to reminisce with others who suffered under the conditions described above.
Les Walklin – ex: 1st Btn Coldstream Guards 1951-53